Your globetrotting liquor reporter is penning this week’s column while holding down a barstool at a brewpub in Halifax.
With Halifax being the port city that much of the early European immigrants first arrived by ship, there is a long history of beer in that fair city.
One of the first breweries in town was opened in 1820 by a Scottish immigrant by the name of Alexander Keith, whose wares still grace the taps of pubs from coast to coast.
After nearly two centuries of distribution only within Canada, Keith’s started exporting to the US market in 2011. Can total world domination be far behind?
The non-Maritimers in the crowd may be surprised to learn that Alexander Keith’s produces more than just the India Pale Ale that we all know and love. That’s right, gentle reader, those crafty Nova Scotians have been keeping the good stuff to themselves for a long time. In addition to their flagship IPA brand, they also produces a Light Ale, a Red Amber Ale, a Premium White, a Dark Ale, and their newest addition, the Original Cider.
We don’t see all of these brands in Alberta, but those eastern beer misers have slowly been opening the taps to slake the thirst of beer drinkers in the west, so expect to see a few more labels show up at your local booze merchant soon.
Alexander Keith’s India Pale Ale was originally designed to be a beer that would stay fresh and unspoiled during the long sea voyage from Halifax to British troops serving in India. In the days before pasteurization and refrigeration, the brewer’s only defenses against spoilage were alcohol and hops.
Due to the changing palate of the contemporary beer lover, the recipe for Alexander Keith’s IPA has changed drastically over the years. A thirsty seaman fresh off the boat would be hard pressed to recognize the similarities between the bitter and hoppy IPA of the 1820’s with the light and refreshing taste of today’s brews. There are even a few beer snobs who do not consider Alexander Keith’s to be a true IPA at all, due to its mild taste, almost more of a lager than an ale.
Lest you get the idea that Alexander Keith’s is the only beer in the Atlantic provinces, please allow your intrepid liquor reporter to disabuse you of that idea. On the macrobrewery front, the Oland family has been brewing Moosehead since 1867. That’s right, Moosehead was born the same year as our glorious nation.
Fun fact: with Molson, Labatt, and Sleeman all being foreign-owned, Moosehead is the largest Canadian-owned brewery in the world.
Labatt also produces a few signature beers in their St. John’s brewery that are only available in the Newfoundland market. These include Blue Star, India Beer, Black Horse, and Bennett Dominion Ale. Despite their varied flavors, I still couldn’t find one that went well with a night of cod-kissin!
Looking to the small microbreweries that are hard to find out west, the Propeller Brewery in Halifax was only two blocks from my hotel, so I made sure to pay my respects by visiting them immediately upon arrival. For the curious reader, the answer is yes, I do indeed select hotels based on their proximity to fine beer.
Luckily, the Propeller Brewing Company concentrates on old-world style beers that are so dear to the heart of your friendly booze reporter, and they are even available at a few retailers in Alberta. You probably won’t find them at smaller liquor stores, but the well-stocked retailers like Willow Park will have them available.
After sampling fine brews all over the city, I ended at the Rock Bottom Brewery, located in the basement of a building from the 18th century. In keeping with the name, a few of the walls were weathered rock that had seen the days and nights of a hundred years pass them by.
My favourite craft beers from Halifax were an even tie between the Irish Red Ale from Garrison Brewing, and the Extra Special Bitter from Propeller Brewing, both located within stumbling distance from my hotel.
Luckily, both of these small breweries have distribution in Alberta, and may be found at your local well-stocked booze merchant. I know that I’ll be picking up a few when I get back home!
