Your intrepid liquor reporter was trying to impress his dinner date at a quaint little seafood restaurant last week, and needed something more unique and interesting than a bog-standard Chardonnay to go with the oysters.
Luckily, your humble narrator has long been a fan of the Viognier (pronounced like vee-ohn-yay) grape varietal, and the waiter was more than happy to trot one out for our enjoyment.
For those not in the know, Viognier is a white wine grape with a long history, dating back to the 3rd century in the Rhône Valley of France, and has been experiencing a resurgence in popularity over the last few decades.
The unrepentant wine snobs in the audience may recognize the Rhône Valley of France as the ancestral home and origin of the famed Syrah grape varietal, one of the biggest and boldest of the big red wines.
In addition to its fine pedigree for red wines, the Rhône Valley is also the adopted home of the white Viognier grape, which is thought to have been brought to the region by the Roman Emperor Probus in the year 281 C.E.
The popularity of the Viognier grape has waxed and waned over the centuries, with it nearly dying out in the 1960s when a mere 8 acres of Viognier grapes were planted in the entire Rhône Valley.
Luckily, Viognier found reprieve when adventurous winemakers found they could impart an attractive apricot aroma to their big and bold Syrah wines by blending in around 4% Viognier during the fermentation process.
Chardonnay is also often blended with small amounts of Viognier, which softens the acidity and adds aromatics to make a more balanced wine.
Plantings of Viognier starting increasing around the world in the 1990s, with California and Australia being the most significant New World producers. We even produce small amounts of Viognier right here in Canada, especially in the Okanagan Valley and around Lake Erie.
Viognier wines tend to be quite floral on the nose, with powerful aromas coming off the glass when you take the first whiff.
When aged in stainless steel vats, there will be strong flavours of stone fruits such as peach and apricot. If the wine has been aged in oak barrels, expect the fruit flavours to be muffled by a complex layer of vanilla and spice overtones imparted by the wood.
Genetically, the Viognier grape is closely related to the Freisa grape varietal, and a slightly more distant cousin of the robust Nebbiolo grape, both of which are very popular in Italy.
Like many white wines, Viognier tends to peak at a young age, so it is generally best when consumed within 3 years of bottling.
Unfortunately, Viognier grape vines are not particularly vigorous, so the yield per acre is lower than other white grapes, which tends to slightly increase the price. The grapes are also susceptible to mildew and other diseases, so Viognier is a challenging grape to grow, making for many a frustrated winemaker.
While the grape can be unpredictable, it usually ripens fairly early in the season. The winemaker must exercise patience, as the grapes do not develop their signature aromas and flavours until full ripeness, so the temptation to harvest early must be resisted.
Luckily, the grape has flourished in the New World, with selective breeding producing a more hardy stock that does particularly well in California. Buoyed by consumer interest in more exotic wines, Viognier is riding a tidal wave of popularity, so it is easy to find at your neighbourhood booze merchant.
The perfumed aromas and strong fruit flavours make Viognier a natural for pairing with spicy foods, with Indian curries and Moroccan tagines being particular favourites of your humble narrator.
If spicy foods are not your thing, try it with a creamy camembert cheese, or a dish made with sweet root vegetables like yams or glazed carrots. Seafood dishes like scallops or lobster also pair well with Viognier.
So, the next time you are in the mood for a white wine, reach past that tired old Chardonnay on the shelf and try out a Viognier.
Many of the small producers in BC and Ontario are hard to find in local stores, but the Bonterra Viognier from California is one of my favourites, and can be found at well-stocked booze merchants in the $20-$25 range.
